The northern variant of the Dodecanese, from Kos, climbs toward the spiritual, wild islands of the archipelago: Kalymnos of the sponge divers, Leros with its Italian architecture, tiny Lipsi and above all Patmos, the island of the Apocalypse. Around 90 miles in a loop, a Meltemi more manageable than in the Cyclades, the warmest water in Greece and plenty of anchorages. Intermediate. Full detail below, anchorages, plan B options and variations.
In brief
| Item | Detail |
|---|---|
| Base | Kos; Rhodes or Leros variant |
| Access | Fly to Kos (KGS) or via Athens; base at the harbour |
| Total distance | ~90 NM (loop) |
| Sailing time | ~20 h over 6 sailing days |
| Duration | 7 days / 6 nights |
| Level | Intermediate |
| Recommended boat | 40-46 ft monohull or catamaran |
| Best time | May to October |
| Winds | Meltemi from N-NW, more manageable than the Cyclades, funnelled between the islands |
| Indicative budget | ~700 to 1,100 € per person all in |
Explore the stops
Approximate destination locations for trip planning. Use current nautical charts and local information for navigation.
Kos · Kalymnos · Leros · Lipsi · Patmos · Arkoi
Weather month by month
| Month | Meltemi | Air | Sea | For whom |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| May | Light | 23-25° | 20-21° | Mild |
| June | Moderate | 27-29° | 23-24° | Ideal |
| July | Firm | 30-33° | 25-26° | Breezy |
| August | Firm | 31-34° | 26-27° | Warmest water |
| September | Easing | 28-30° | 25-26° | Ideal |
| October | Variable | 24-26° | 23-24° | End of season |
What to understand about the area
A gentler Meltemi. The northern Dodecanese gets a northerly Meltemi funnelled between the islands, often more manageable than in the Cyclades, though it can pipe up in the straits; you take it downwind climbing to Patmos, on the wind coming back down.
Sheltered islands. Leros and its huge, safe bay of Lakki, Lipsi and its coves, Patmos and Skala harbour: shelter is plentiful, a rare comfort in the Greek Far East.
Kos logistics. A good charter base with the airport on the island; one-way to Rhodes or Leros possible depending on the operator.
Day by day
Day 1: Kos to Kalymnos (Pothia), 12 NM, ~2 h 30
Sailing: a short climb to the sponge divers' island.
Anchorage: Pothia harbour (quay) or the Vathy anchorage, a spectacular green fjord.
Plan B: Emborios bay to the north.
Warning: Pothia is busy and commercial; Vathy is more intimate.
Day 2: Kalymnos to Leros (Lakki), 15 NM, ~3 h
Sailing: north, Meltemi astern if established.
Anchorage: the huge Lakki bay (all-weather shelter) or Partheni harbour to the north.
Ashore: 1930s Italian rationalist architecture, unique in Greece.
Warning: Lakki bay is vast, choose your corner by the wind.
Day 3: Leros to Lipsi, 12 NM, ~2 h 30
Sailing: across to little Lipsi, authentic.
Anchorage: Lipsi harbour or the bays of Katsadia and Platis Gialos.
Plan B: the islets of Arki and Marathi just to the north.
Warning: few facilities, stock up at Leros.
Day 4: Lipsi to Patmos (Skala), 10 NM, ~2 h
Sailing: a short leg to the holy island.
Anchorage: Skala harbour (quay or anchor) or Grikos bay to the south.
Ashore: the Monastery of St John and the Cave of the Apocalypse, UNESCO-listed.
Warning: Skala is exposed to the northerly Meltemi; Grikos is more sheltered in strong wind.
Day 5: Patmos and Arki / Marathi, 12 NM, ~2 h 30
Sailing: a nature day around the islets of Arki and Marathi.
Anchorage: the Arki or Marathi anchorage, isolated tavernas and clear water, an overnight possible in calm weather, otherwise back to Grikos.
Warning: open anchorages, judge by the Meltemi.
Day 6: Patmos to Kalymnos (Emborios), 20 NM, ~4 h
Sailing: back down on the wind against the Meltemi, leave early.
Anchorage: Emborios bay in northern Kalymnos, sheltered, tavernas.
Plan B: back to Vathy on Kalymnos.
Warning: a windward leg, pick the morning slot.
Day 7: Kalymnos to Kos, 15 NM, ~3 h
Sailing: the final run down to the base. Refuel before handover.
Variations and personalisation
Discovery / family version. Stay on Kos, Kalymnos, Leros, Lipsi with short legs and swim bays, without pushing to Patmos.
Experienced version. Climb on to Arki, Agathonisi, even Samos, with longer legs and more windward work.
One-way Kos to Rhodes variant. Head down south (Nisyros, Tilos, Symi) and join the Rhodes-Kos route one-way over 10 to 14 days.
By season. May-June and September for a gentle Meltemi; July-August for warm water, accepting more wind in the straits.
Summary table
| Day | Leg | NM | Time (~5 kn) | Anchorage | Shelter |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| D1 | Kos to Kalymnos | 12 | ~2 h 30 | Pothia / Vathy | Good |
| D2 | Kalymnos to Leros | 15 | ~3 h | Lakki | Very good |
| D3 | Leros to Lipsi | 12 | ~2 h 30 | Lipsi | Good |
| D4 | Lipsi to Patmos | 10 | ~2 h | Skala / Grikos | Moderate |
| D5 | Patmos and Arki | 12 | ~2 h 30 | Arki / Grikos | Variable |
| D6 | Patmos to Kalymnos | 20 | ~4 h | Emborios | Good |
| D7 | Kalymnos to Kos | 15 | ~3 h | Base | n/a |
| Total | ~90 | ~20 h |
Practical checklist
- Licence: coastal licence plus ICC plus VHF Short Range Certificate — see Do you need a licence to sail in Greece.
- Weather: watch the Meltemi in the straits, keep margin on the windward Day 6.
- TEPAI and the usual papers on board.
- Provisioning: shop at Kos, Pothia and Leros.
Booking and preparation
- Compare boats available from Kos.
- Consider charter insurance (deposit waiver).
- Flights: Paris to Kos (KGS), often via Athens.
- Ashore: Patmos monastery, climbing on Kalymnos, Italian architecture of Leros.
See also: the Rhodes-Kos Dodecanese itinerary and the guide Sailing in Greece.
A word from the crew
Logbook. Climbing to Patmos downwind, Meltemi at your back, then up to the monastery at sunset: the northern Dodecanese has a gentle gravity few Greek archipelagos possess. And the green fjord of Vathy on Kalymnos, a surprise every time.
The mistake to avoid. Coming back down from Patmos in the afternoon. The windward return against the Meltemi is best negotiated in the morning; in the afternoon it pounds.
Our favourite, and what we skip. Favourite: Vathy bay on Kalymnos and the Patmos monastery. What we skip: cramming onto the Skala quay in a Meltemi, Grikos is safer.
Our verdict. Beauty 5/5. Anchorages 4/5. Ease 3/5. Crowds 2/5. Verdict: the secret, spiritual Dodecanese, better sheltered than the Cyclades, ideal late in the season.
Nautical data: Dodecanese distance tables, harbour offices of Kos, Kalymnos, Leros and Patmos. Weather: HNMS, 2025 averages.
