The Dodecanese is one of Greece's finest island chains, with a more manageable Meltemi than the Cyclades and the warmest water in the country. This one-week route runs from Rhodes down to Kos via Symi, the volcanoes of Nisyros and the sponge-fishers' islands. Around 169 miles, short legs, and one real advantage: the return runs downwind to the south, unlike the Cyclades. Full detail below.
In brief
| Item | Detail |
|---|---|
| Base | Rhodes or Kos |
| Access | Direct flights to Rhodes (RHO) and Kos (KGS) in season |
| Total distance | ~169 NM |
| Sailing time | ~34 h over 7 days |
| Duration | 7 days / 6 nights |
| Level | Intermediate; 300 logged miles advised |
| Recommended boat | 40-46 ft monohull or catamaran |
| Best time | May-June and September-October |
| Winds | Meltemi N-NNW, 12-22 kt, softer than the Cyclades |
| Indicative budget | ~700 to 1,100 € per person (see Sailing budget in Greece) |
Explore the stops
Approximate destination locations for trip planning. Use current nautical charts and local information for navigation.
Rhodes · Symi · Tilos · Nisyros · Kos · Kalymnos · Leros
Weather month by month
| Month | Meltemi | Air | Sea | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| May | Light | 22-25° | 19-20° | Fine, calm |
| June | Moderate | 27-29° | 22-23° | Ideal |
| July | Moderate to strong | 30-32° | 24-25° | Warm, windier |
| August | Moderate to strong | 30-33° | 25-26° | Warmest water in Greece |
| September | Easing | 27-29° | 24-25° | Ideal |
| October | Light to moderate | 23-26° | 22-23° | Season still open |
Day by day
Day 1, Rhodes to Symi, 25 NM, ~5 h
Anchorage: Symi town quay (Med-mooring; downdraught gusts possible), or the calmer Pedi bay. Water and provisions in the village.
Ashore: the neoclassical harbour of coloured houses, one of the loveliest in Greece; the monastery of Panormitis, with anchoring in its south bay.
Warning: katabatic gusts in Symi harbour in a strong Meltemi.
Day 2, Symi to Tilos, 30 NM, ~6 h
Anchorage: Livadia harbour (small, sheltered) or Agios Antonios bay. Limited facilities.
Ashore: an unspoilt island, nature reserve, trails to the ghost village of Mikro Chorio.
Day 3, Tilos to Nisyros, 22 NM, ~4-5 h
Anchorage: Mandraki (small harbour) or the more sheltered Palon.
Ashore: the volcano, with a walk down into the steaming Stefanos crater (a 2 h excursion by bus or taxi).
Warning: tight harbours, roadstead anchoring often needed.
Day 4, Nisyros to Kos, 20 NM, ~4 h
Anchorage: Kos marina (full facilities) or the town harbour. Water, fuel, supermarkets, repairs: the resupply stop of the trip.
Ashore: the ancient town, the Asklepieion (Hippocrates' sanctuary), the plane tree of Hippocrates.
Day 5, Kos to Kalymnos, 12 NM, ~2-3 h
Anchorage: Pothia (the lively main harbour) or the spectacular, very sheltered Vathi fjord.
Ashore: the sponge-fishers' island (maritime museum), and a world-class sport-climbing venue.
Day 6, Kalymnos to Leros, 20 NM, ~4 h
Anchorage: Lakki, a huge, very protected bay lined with 1930s Italian architecture; good shelter in all winds. Alternatives at Agia Marina or Pandeli.
Ashore: modernist Lakki, the castle of Pandeli.
Day 7, Leros to Kos or Rhodes, 40 NM (Kos) or more (Rhodes), ~8 h
Sailing: back to base, downwind to the south, more comfortable than the Cyclades beat. Still, leave early if the Meltemi is strong.
Summary table
| Day | Leg | NM | Time (~5 kn) | Anchorage | Shelter |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| D1 | Rhodes to Symi | 25 | ~5 h | Symi or Pedi | Moderate (gusts) |
| D2 | Symi to Tilos | 30 | ~6 h | Livadia | Good |
| D3 | Tilos to Nisyros | 22 | ~4-5 h | Mandraki / Palon | Moderate |
| D4 | Nisyros to Kos | 20 | ~4 h | Kos marina | Very good |
| D5 | Kos to Kalymnos | 12 | ~2-3 h | Pothia / Vathi fjord | Very good |
| D6 | Kalymnos to Leros | 20 | ~4 h | Lakki | Excellent |
| D7 | Leros to Kos/Rhodes | 40 | ~8 h | base | n/a |
| Total | ~169 | ~34 h |
Practical checklist
- Licence: coastal licence plus ICC plus VHF Short Range Certificate. See Do you need a licence to sail in Greece.
- Provisioning: water and fuel at Rhodes, Kos or Kalymnos, scarce elsewhere.
- TEPAI and the usual papers.
Booking and preparation
- Compare boats available from Rhodes or Kos.
- Charter insurance recommended.
- Flights: to Rhodes (RHO) or Kos (KGS) in season.
- Shore activities: the Nisyros crater, the Asklepieion of Kos, climbing on Kalymnos.
See also: the guide Sailing the Dodecanese and the article How much does a week's sailing in Greece cost.
Nautical data: Dodecanese distance tables, harbour offices of Rhodes, Kos and Leros. Weather: HNMS. Some mooring details to be confirmed with an up-to-date pilot before departure.
A word from the crew
Logbook. Symi at dusk stays with you: the ochre and yellow neoclassical houses rising in an amphitheatre around the harbour, and the light switching them on one by one.
The mistake to avoid. Taking Symi harbour lightly. Katabatic gusts pour down off the hills and Med-mooring gets tricky fast; anchor early and back up your anchor.
Our favourite, and what we skip. Favourite: the caldera of the Nisyros volcano, a walk into a steaming crater. What we skip: nothing essential, but plan the one-way logistics from Rhodes to Kos.
Our verdict. Beauty 5/5. Anchorages 3/5. Ease 3/5. Crowds 2/5. Verdict: a chain of islands with strong character, less busy than the Cyclades, ideal late in the season.
