Cyclades in 7 days from Athens

Out of Alimos around 10 am after provisioning — allow a solid hour at the harbour supermarket, it is the only real re-supply of the week. The course to Kythnos puts the meltemi 60° off the bow: trim once, and the boat eats the 38 miles in six hours.

Kolona is the postcard anchorage of the Cyclades: a sand isthmus separating two bays, a taverna in the olive trees, and the clearest water of the week. Arrive before 4 pm in summer, the bay fills up. Anchor in 4 m over white sand, excellent holding.

This is the leg that sets the tone. Off Kythnos' southern point the channel accelerates the meltemi by 8–10 knots: one reef in the main before leaving the island's lee, a few rolls in the genoa, and the crossing becomes muscular reaching pleasure rather than an ordeal.

We prefer Finikas, on the southwest coast, to the main harbour of Ermoupoli: better meltemi protection and closer to the beaches. In the evening, a 15-minute taxi climbs to Ano Syros for sunset over the Venetian rooftops.

A downwind hop to the liveliest island of the loop. Naoussa's wide bay swallows the meltemi: we anchor at Kolymbithres among the sculpted granite boulders, ten dinghy-minutes from the village.

Naoussa at night is the week's urban counterpoint — ouzo bars around the miniature harbour, packed white lanes. Our tip: eat early on the fishing-port side, then head back aboard as the crowds arrive.

Round Antiparos to the south — the inner channel is beautiful but tight in strong wind — then broad reach towards Sifnos. This is the leg where the archipelago opens up: deserted Despotiko to port, Sifnos growing ahead.

Vathi is our favourite anchorage of the week: an almost land-locked bay, a chapel sitting on the beach, three tavernas. The local bus reaches Apollonia in 20 minutes if you want to see the island's capital.

Only twelve miles: we linger at Vathi in the morning, then break for a swim at Fikiada on Sifnos' west coast before the short crossing.

On Serifos, climb to the Chora late in the day (bus or a 45-minute walk): it is one of the finest hilltop villages in the Cyclades, and the sunset view over the bay justifies the whole week on its own.

The most physical day: heading north means beating into the meltemi. Leaving at 8 am while the wind still sleeps changes everything — we have done this leg in three hours in the morning and six in the afternoon.

Merichas lacks Kolona's charm, but it is the right springboard for the final crossing: provisioning, water top-up available, and three honest tavernas on the waterfront.

The return is a beam reach, meltemi to starboard: the fastest of the week's long crossings. Pass close to Cape Sounion — the Temple of Poseidon seen from the sea is the perfect farewell to the Aegean.

Plan to be on the dock before 5 pm: diesel is at the marina fuel station and the queue builds on Friday evening. Last dinner in the Kalamaki district, a ten-minute walk from the pontoons.